Open wheel setup

My Crew Chief went and bought himself a car and we need help getting it setup. Alignment and corner balance is the big thing. It is a F1000 with a Van Dieman "type" chassis. If there are any shop recommendations or people interested please let me know. We are not looking for free help just somebody that know what they are doing. Unlike us...
Contact me:
sa_haynes@yahoo.com or 425-806-8585
 
I'd recommend D&D (Ken Dye) or, Archie Hodge both good guys with open wheel cars and Van Diemen's.

Van Diemen chassis you say? Is this a Novak conversion? Not that many of them that's why I ask. Wondering where and whom he bought it from?

He's your Crew Chief? Any open wheel experience in his background DRIVING? If not he's stepped in to the world of speed and cornering DEEPLY. Tell him to tread softly as he learns the car. But he's gonna have a lot of fun and we are going to have a lot of fun seeing and hearing him.

The other thing you can do is go on Apexspeed in the F1000 section. Tell them exactly what chassis/engine package you have in the FB General Discussion section and you'll probably get SUPER good advice in a base line setup.

Another option: Call Nicolas Belling at Furman West. He raced a Van Diemen FC chassis for years and knows the car well. Now he races and sell Furman F1000's so he knows that side of the equation too.
 
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There will be no shortage of people giving you suspension advice. I did a RF95 for the pro 2000 series and let me tell you...there are tons of "experts" out there!
 
Used to run all over the country, but yes. Did work on Nick Holt's car also, but I think both of those names are long forgotten! It is a great series. I have been to races where there are close to 100 cars racing for 50-60 starting postions.
 
Scott, if you have an idea of what the values should be, ride height mostly, I'd be happy to put the car on my platen and we can adjust it to those for a starting point. Cost you some beers.
 
Most of these FC's have a 'spot' on the front belly pan that's considered the place to measure ride height (at the front bulkhead or...). Generally it's as low as you can get it without bottoming the car "too much". (On our Reynard, that was 5/8" ((at Portland)) with 800 Lbs front springs. ADD 1/8" for Pacific) Then, there's some commonly accepted point at the back of the car (can vary from the rear cockpit bulkhead to the bell housing) where you set the rack (On our Reynard, that was 3/4") NOTE: also ran 600 Lbs rear springs.

3 degrees of Caster pretty typical
1.5 degrees negative Camber all round to start (adjust per pyro readings)
1/16" to 1/8" toe OUT each side front
1/16" toe IN each side rear

Used Hoosier tires (cheap from Burget 2nd hand) Starting temps.... 16 Lbs front 17 Lbs rear (shooting for 18 front and 19 rear HOT) Adjust based on pyro readings.

Shocks: Whatever Stimola says

http://www.srpengineering.com/aboutus.php

Of course, all of the above is subject to big changes with the MC engine. And there's nobody up in the Seattle area that has any 'shop' experience that I know of. All of the F1000's are running out of BC and Portland (nearest ones).

BUT, George Dean is in Mountlake Terrace. Although he does 80% or more of the "good" F1000 engines, I'll be he has a good idea of what guys are running for setups. George is also a 'good guy'. Might want to give him a call.

http://georgedeanracing.com/about_george.htm
 
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Are the control arm attachment points adjustable at either the chassis or spindle end? Curious if one needs to pay attention to CA angles or if they're pretty much a fixed design.
 
Are the control arm attachment points adjustable at either the chassis or spindle end?

Typically YES, Randy. Most A-arms, trailing links, everything (on FC, FF, FM, F1000, etc.) use Aurora or other rod ends at ALL attachment points. 30 or more rod ends on a Formula Car. All 'newer' Van Diemen's use inboard shocks with push or pull rods. So ride height adjustment is independent of spring purch adjustments.

Novak makes a complete conversion "kit" for the Van Diemen to make it an F1000. Retains the pushrod design rear suspension with a 'bolt on" rear sub frame. I don't know if Scott's Crew Chief has a Novak conversion on his VD.

http://www.novaracecars.com/product2.htm

It's actually a pretty neat way to get a serious increase in speed (the performance equal to all but the very best Formula Atlantic's). At min cost if you have a VD. The regular FC engine/parts can be sold off easily to recover some of the costs.
 
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Thanks everybody. I think he found some help. Now I just got to get him on track... Look for a black and gold car in July.

Randy- wanna go back to your roots and work on a VW?? Might need some help soon...
 
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